The line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of cloth is called seam.
There are different types of seams. It is important to choose the correct seam for any given article or part of garment.
Points to consider when choosing a seam:
a) kind of material or fabric being sewn. For instance - flat seams like run-and fell are suitable for bulky materials like wool. French seam is suitable for thin material like silk.
b) purpose or use if the garment from example flat seams for night gowns.
c) the person to wear the clothes. For instance flat seams such as run-and fell seam are suitable for children's clothes that require constant washing.
d) position of the seam. For instance lapped seam is suitable for curved seams.
Plain or open seam: this is the simplest and most commonly used seam. It has little bulk. It leaves raw edges that need to be finished or neated. To make:
- place the right sides of material together, mark seam line.
- remove tacking thread and press open the seam.
- finish or neaten the raw edges.
Finishing or neating open seam:
The edges of the open seam can be neated by any of the following ways:
- pinking: this is the process of neatening or finishing with pinking shears. It is suitable for bulky fabrics that do not fray.
- overcasting: this can be done with either hand or machine. It is suitable for all fabrics.
- edge stitching: this is machine finishing. It is very neat and strong. It is good for fabrics that fray.
- zig-zag finishing: crossway or blastrips are used for this. It is suitable for heavy fabrics that fray easily.