Concetti Chiave
- The French seam is a flat seam that encloses all raw edges, making it ideal for children's clothing and requiring no additional neatening.
- The run-and-fell seam features two rows of stitching on the right side, providing strength and durability without needing further neatening.
- The lapped or overlaid seam is visible on the right side and offers both strength and decorative appeal, especially useful for curved or pointed seams.
- French seams are made by stitching fabric pieces together with wrong sides facing, trimming the seam allowance, and then refolding and sewing.
- Run-and-fell seams involve pressing and trimming seam allowances before folding and sewing through all layers for a neat finish.
There are different types of seams.
1) French seam: This is a flat seam. It does not show from the right side. All raw edges are completely enclosed. It does not require extra neatening process. It is suitable for children's cloth. To make:
- place wrong sides of fabric pieces together.
- pin and tack along fitting line (seam line).
- remove pins and sew 3-6 mm nearer the edge than seam line, using back-stitch or machine.
- trim the seam allowance carefully.
- remove taking and fold the fabric right sides together.
- roll the seam between fingers and thumbs until stitching is along the edge.
- tack and press into two; sew along seam line and remove tacking and press.
2) Run-and fell seam: This ties flat with two rows of stitching on the right side of the garment. All row edges are enclosed. Thus no extra neating is required. It is strong and durable. To make:
- place wrong sides of fabric together and make a plain seam,
- press the seam to one side,
- trim the underneath seam allowance to about 3 mm,
- trim the upper seam allowance to 10 mm,
- fold and press the upper seam allowance over the lower one.
- sew through all layers close to the folded edge and Press.
3) Lapped or Overlaid seam: This is visible on the right side. It is very strong. It is commonly used on curved or pointed seams where stitching from the inside is difficult. It is also used to give decorative effect. To make:
- mark the lapping lines on each piece of fabric.
- turn under the seam allowance on the overlay to the wrong side.
- press and tach into place; prepare the underlay.
- place the overlay right side up in the underlay. Match fitting lines and patterns.
- pin and tack the folded edge of the overlay onto the seam line of the underlay.
- sew 3-6 mm from the fold through all layers.
- trim and neaten the seam allowance on the wrong side.
Domande da interrogazione
- ¿Qué tipo de costura es adecuada para la ropa de niños y por qué?
- ¿Cómo se realiza una costura Run-and fell y cuáles son sus características principales?
- ¿En qué situaciones se utiliza la costura Lapped o Overlaid y cómo se realiza?
La costura francesa es adecuada para la ropa de niños porque es una costura plana que no se muestra desde el lado derecho y todos los bordes crudos están completamente encerrados, lo que no requiere un proceso adicional de acabado.
Para realizar una costura Run-and fell, se colocan los lados incorrectos de la tela juntos y se hace una costura simple, luego se presiona hacia un lado, se recortan las asignaciones de costura y se cose a través de todas las capas. Es fuerte, duradera y no requiere acabado adicional.
La costura Lapped o Overlaid se utiliza en costuras curvas o puntiagudas donde es difícil coser desde el interior y para efectos decorativos. Se realiza marcando las líneas de solapamiento, doblando y presionando el margen de costura, y luego cosiendo a través de todas las capas.
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