A hem is usually made by folding the edge of a garment to the wrong side twice and sewing it up. Hems are made on the lower edges of blouses, skirts, gowns, trousers, etc.
Uses of a hem:
1. It is used to finish the edge of the garment.
2. It helps the garment to hang well.
3. It improves the style and appearance of a garment.
4. It can be used to decorate a garment.
Guidelines for making a hem:
1. Make the hem to look straight and smooth.
2. Match the seam lines when pinning hem into place. Then adjust the fullness between the seams.
3. So jot make the hem bulky.
4. Make depth of hem for:
- straight skirts and gauzy fabrics 5-7, 5 cm (wide hem).
- flared or circular or heavy fabrics 13 - 20 mm (narrow hem).
- blouses 13 - 3,8 cm.
- children's clothes can have wider hems that can be extended as they grow.
6. Insert pins vertically into the hem to ensure that all fullness is evenly distributed.
7. Make hemming stitches as invisible as possible on the right side is the garment.
8. Take up only one thread from the fabric with the needle.
9. Any seams that run into the hemline should be pressed open before hemming.
Making a straight hem:
1. Mark the hemline with a line of pins or a straight line of tacking or basting.
2. Make first turning of 1 cm from the edge of the hem. Press fold only.
3. Make the second turning, with tenfold on the marked hemline.
4. Finish the raw ede properly either with overacting or edge stitching.
5. Pin and tack edge of first turning to the hemline. Then press.
6. See the hem with hemming stitches, or skip hemming as follows:
- pick up a single thread below the fold edge of the hem.
- slip the needle in the fold for about 6 mm.
- bring out the needle, then pick up another single thread below the fold.
- repeat the process until hem is completed.