Concetti Chiave
- Start by creating bodice and skirt blocks on brown paper, ensuring the center front is aligned straight, and close the skirt dart.
- Extend patterns by adding specific measurements to armhole, waistline, and hemline, while adjusting shoulder and neckline curves.
- Add seam allowances to the pattern, maintaining 2cm around except at the center front, which will be on the fabric fold.
- Lay and cut patterns on fabric by folding it with right sides together, ensuring accuracy with tailor's tacks.
- Assemble garment pieces by matching notches, sewing seams, and finishing edges with bias strips, then press the completed garment.
Preparazione dei blocchi
It is fundamental to create bodice blocks and skirt blocks before making a simple garment.
1. Place the front bodice and skirt blocks on brown paper. Let the centrefront be on a straight line. Close dart for skirt.
2. Draw round the blocks the pattern you need.
3. Add about 2,5cm to the armhole edge, 5cm to the waistline and 7,4cm to the hemline at the sides then join.
4. Remove about 2,5cm from shoulder line and drop the neck edge about 5cm, make a deep curve for neckline opening.
5. Put in the notches. Make a slit opening for the back neckline.
6.
Aggiunta delle cuciture
Add seam allowance to the pattern. Make the seam allowance 2cm around the pattern except at the centre front (which is on the fold).
7. Cut out the pattern and follow the same procedure to prepare the back pattern.
Laying of pattern and cutting out:
1. Straighten the fabric.
2. Fold the fabric into two with right sides together.
3. Place pattern along the fold of the fabric.
4. Pint the pattern and cut out.
5. Transfer all pattern making to the fabric using tailor's tacks.
6 finish the neckline and armholes with bias or crossway strip.
Making up:
Assemblaggio del capo
- place the front and back garment pieces together with right sides facing.
- match the notches.
- pin the shoulder seams and the side seams.
- tack along the pinned seams and remove pins.
- fit the garment, make necessary corrections where required.
- sew permanently using machine stitch of backstitch.
- finish the seams and finish the slit.
- bind the armhole and necklines neatly (finish or neaten with crossway stripes).
- finish the hem and later press the garment.
Domande da interrogazione
- Qual è il primo passo nella preparazione dei blocchi per un capo semplice?
- Come si aggiungono le cuciture al modello?
- Quali sono i passaggi finali nell'assemblaggio del capo?
Il primo passo è posizionare i blocchi del corpetto anteriore e della gonna su carta marrone, assicurandosi che il centro davanti sia su una linea retta e chiudere la pince della gonna.
Si aggiunge un margine di cucitura di 2 cm intorno al modello, tranne al centro davanti che è sulla piega.
I passaggi finali includono abbinare i pezzi del capo davanti e dietro con i lati diritti insieme, appuntare e imbastire le cuciture delle spalle e dei lati, cucire permanentemente, rifinire le cuciture e l'orlo, e infine stirare il capo.
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