Aspetto esteriore - Tesina per liceo linguistico

I.I.S. Pier Paolo Pasolini

Liceo Linguistico

5° C – A.S.

2011/2012

Progetto a cura di

Giulia Bergamaschi

1

O si è un’opera d’arte o la si indossa.

O. Wilde 1

Le motivazioni

Ho voluto sostenere la tesi presentata da Oscar Wilde, poiché credo che molto spesso, nella vita di tutti i giorni, il nostro aspetto dica molto di più di noi stessi rispetto alle nostre parole. Attraverso gli abiti che indossiamo, proponiamo al “pubblico” noi stessi, ciò che siamo e quello che portiamo nel nostro bagaglio interiore. Questa “esposizione in vetrina” a mio parere, porta a una sola conclusione, peraltro negativa. Infatti, permette alle persone di giudicarci con superficialità, con una sola occhiata la gente si vanta di comprendere un individuo, un mondo intero.

Proprio ciò che indossiamo ci condanna alla superficialità e a creare un mondo che non ha il tempo di fermarsi e chiedersi se riesce (o vuole) vedere oltre a una camicia firmata o a un vestito da favola, stile topini di Cenerentola.

A volte siamo costretti a vestirci in modo consono all’ambiente in cui ci troviamo, nonostante magari, ciò che deve essere indossato possa non rispecchiarci del tutto. La costrizione di indossare qualcosa che non sentiamo nostro, io la avverto come una limitazione alla mia libertà, un’imposizione che non accetto, come un lupetto dal collo troppo alto che non mi permette di respirare.

Come disse Mark Twain: “THE FINEST CLOTHING MADE IS A PERSON’S SKIN, BUT,

Of course, society demands more than this

2

Ed è esattamente questo quello a cui siamo costretti. Io vorrei mostrare la visione che ho del mondo della Moda, perché penso che essa rappresenti una forma d’arte,

One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art

1. Excerpt from “Miscellanies” by

Oscar Wilde

2 Il miglior vestito mai creato è la pelle della persona, ma ovviamente, la società richiede più di questo. Mark Twain’s aphorism 2

a pari merito della Musica e della Pittura, ma che il suo ruolo nella vita di tutti i giorni sia stato sempre frainteso. La Moda non è un vestito firmato da sfoggiare davanti agli sguardi delle amiche invidiose ma la possibilità di identificarsi in un vestito che possa rappresentarci.

Concepisco la Moda come la libertà di esprimere i propri sentimenti attraverso i tessuti e le stoffe esattamente come fa un pittore grazie ai suoi pennelli e ai suoi colori.

Indice

Per dividere ogni argomento ho incluso nella tesina le foto di alcuni vestiti creati da Alexander McQueen (Londra 1969 – 2010), il mio fashion designer preferito. La scelta dei modelli è dettata dal mio personale gusto e dai vestiti che esprimono al meglio il mio concetto di Opera d’Arte.

• Abito: Ensemble, autumn/winter 2010/11 ……………………………………… 1
• Pagina
• Titolo e Motivazioni ……………………………………………………………….. 2-3
• Pagina
• Indice ………………………………………………………………………………… 4
• Pagina

Sarabande

• Abito: Dress, spring/summer 2007 ………………………... 5
• Pagina
• Oscar Wilde ………………………………………………………………………. 6
• Pagina
• Analisi delle opere “The Picture of Dorian Gray” e
• “The Happy Prince and Other Tales” ……………………………………….. 10
• Pagina

Plato’s Atlantis

• Abito: Dress, spring/summer 2010 ………………………... 14
• Pagina
• Oscar’s Dress Reform ………………………………………………………….. 15
• Pagina

It’s only a Game

• Abito: Ensemble, spring/summer 2005 …. 18
• Pagina
• Sonia Delaunay ………………………………………………………………… 19
• Pagina
• The Girl who lived in tree
• Abito: Ensemble, autumn/winter 2008/2009 ………………………………….. 28
• Pagina
• Bibliografia ……………………………………………………………………… 29
• Pagina
• Sarabande,
• Abito: Dress, spring/summer 2007 ………………….. 30
• Pagina

3

4

Oscar Wilde

Oscar Wilde was born in Dublin, Ireland, on 16 October 1854. He was the son of William, a famous eye specialist and an expert of Irish antiques and Jane Francesca Elgee, an Irish nationalist poet known by the pseudonym of ‘Speranza’.

In 1863 Oscar and his family moved to a very smart quarter in Dublin and his house became the meeting point of Dubliner artists and intellectuals. He attended the Portora Royal School in Enniskillen. During his years at the Portora he developed a devoted attachment to his silk hat, a stovepipe of immense height, which in contravention of the rules he rarely removed. In 1871 he attended the Trinity College in Dublin where he became a confident young man and three years later he won a scholarship for the Magdalene College of Oxford, where he had John Ruskin and Walter Pater as teachers. Pater was the precursor (as Keats) of the principle “the love of art for art’s sake” and he had an æsthetic influence on Wilde and his ideals affected every aspect of his life.

In 1878 he left the Oxford University after being graduated in Classic

5

subjects. He became famous for his genius and his eccentric style: his stylish clothes made him a well-known figure in fashionable London circles and he loved to decorate his apartment with peacock’s plumes and sunflowers. His talk, from being witty or clever, began to assume an “oracular obscurity”, a hallmark of his personality. He was appreciated by society for his acute intelligence and his brilliant conversation, even insolent. In 1881 he wrote a very successful collection, “Poems”.

In 1882 he spent a year in the United States, where he toured and met Constance “Personal Impressions of America”,

Lloyd, his future wife. He wrote which will be published in 1921, after his death. In this essay Wilde described American social “The first thing that struck me on landing in America was that if

habits very well:

the Americans are not the best dressed people in the world, surely the people are dressed more comfortably”. When he left for the US, Wilde took with him a set of costumes, that he had especially made, to show during his conferences.

He returned to London where he married Constance Lloyd. Wilde described her as “a grave, slight, violet-eyed little Artemis, with great coils of heavy brown hair, which make her flower-like head droop like a blossom”. They had two sons, Cyril (1885) and Vyvyan (1886). He collaborated with several magazines, including <<The Lady’s World>>, a magazine directed to the more ambitious housewife.

“The Happy Prince and Other Tales”,

In 1888 he published a collection of fairy tales

The

for children, illustrated by Walter Crane. In this year he also published the tale “

Young King”. The portrait of

On the <<Blackwood’s Magazine>> was published “

Mr. W.H.”, a short story in which it is discussed the theory that Shakespeare’s sonnets were inspired by his love for the actor William Hughes. The

On the American journal <<Lippincott’s Monthly>> appeared a first draft of “

Picture of Dorian Gray” which raised much controversy, from which Wilde defended

“Art is independent of the moral”.

himself saying that It was 1890. A year later

“The Picture of Dorian Gray” was bound in volumes and it was considered the manifesto of the Aestheticism at the end of 19 century.

th The House of

In 1891 Oscar published his second volume of tales, “

Pomegranates”, “Intentions” “Salomé”,

and the play written in French. He met Lord Alfred Douglas, called Bosie, with whom he began a troubled love affair. The affection for Constance and his children never died, but changed. The intimacy between Douglas and Wilde grew gradually but in 1892 they were already very

“Lady Windermere’s Fan”

close. The play was staged the same year and Wilde

“A Woman of no Importance”.

wrote He travelled around the English countryside, renting homes that he shared with Bosie and where he retired to write. Lord Douglas was beautiful, amusing, young but also reckless, arrogant and spendthrift with an insane pride and an uncontrollable temper. All these qualities were attractive to Wilde but the presence of his new companion distracted him from his

The Importance of Being

career as a writer, and he didn’t produce anything, up to “

6

Earnest”, 1895, a play that takes place in the English countryside at the end of the 19 century. It’s important to understand Wilde’s point of view of society: he had

th

always criticized upper class and its manners. Thank to his ability in conversation, he could make fun of society without appearing rude and impolite.

1895 was a very important year. Wilde was, at that time, a successful man. He had two plays running at the same time in London.