Concetti Chiave
- Seams are essential for joining pieces of cloth, with different types suitable for various materials and garment purposes.
- Choosing the right seam involves considering the fabric type, garment purpose, wearer, and seam position.
- Simple or open seams are the most commonly used, requiring finishing to prevent raw edges from fraying.
- Seam finishing methods include pinking, overcasting, edge stitching, and zig-zag finishing, each suitable for different fabric types.
- Plain seams are easy to construct by aligning material right sides, sewing from the wrong side, and pressing open the seam.
The line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of cloth is called seam.
What are the types of seams and considerations?
There are different types of seams. It is important to choose the correct seam for any given article or part of garment.
Points to consider when choosing a seam:
a) kind of material or fabric being sewn. For instance - flat seams like run-and fell are suitable for bulky materials like wool. French seam is suitable for thin material like silk.
b) purpose or use if the garment from example flat seams for night gowns.
c) the person to wear the clothes. For instance flat seams such as run-and fell seam are suitable for children's clothes that require constant washing.
d) position of the seam. For instance lapped seam is suitable for curved seams.
Simple or open seam
Plain or open seam: this is the simplest and most commonly used seam. It has little bulk. It leaves raw edges that need to be finished or neated. To make:
- place the right sides of material together, mark seam line.
- pin, tack and sew from the wrong side of fabric with proper seam allowance.
- remove tacking thread and press open the seam.
- finish or neaten the raw edges.
Seam finishing methods
Finishing or neating open seam:
The edges of the open seam can be neated by any of the following ways:
- pinking: this is the process of neatening or finishing with pinking shears. It is suitable for bulky fabrics that do not fray.
- overcasting: this can be done with either hand or machine. It is suitable for all fabrics.
- edge stitching: this is machine finishing. It is very neat and strong. It is good for fabrics that fray.
- zig-zag finishing: crossway or blastrips are used for this. It is suitable for heavy fabrics that fray easily.
Domande da interrogazione
- What factors should be considered when choosing a seam type for a garment?
- What are some methods for finishing the edges of an open seam?
When selecting a seam type, consider the fabric's nature, the garment's purpose, the wearer's needs, and the seam's position. For example, flat seams like run-and-fell are ideal for bulky materials and children's clothes, while French seams suit thin fabrics like silk.
Open seam edges can be finished using pinking, overcasting, edge stitching, or zig-zag finishing. Pinking is suitable for bulky, non-fraying fabrics, while overcasting works for all fabrics. Edge stitching is neat and strong for fraying fabrics, and zig-zag finishing is ideal for heavy, fraying fabrics.
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